Chocolate Ice Cream Demonstration at the 2014 Chocolate Fair “Salon du Chocolat” in Paris, by France’s Finest Artisan Meilleur Ouvrier de France Jean-Claude David.
The Meilleur Ouvrier de France also called by its acronym MOF is the highest distinction for many professions (11 in our beloved culinary field, ice cream maker is one of them). This award, held every 3 years, is a very tough contest with few nominees. The MOF can easily be recognized due to their blue white and red collar, like the French flag.
Jean-Claude David is one of these MOF’s, and also the President of the CNGF, the Confederation of French Ice Cream Makers. This man must know what he is talking about!
Learning how to make an ice cream, what a piece of cake! My first thought was that there was nothing easier than this and certainly no need for such a demonstration. It turned out to be a lovely moment with an enthusiastic and charming man, sharing his passion and giving tips, looking out at the audience with a twinkle in his eye.
What I recall, according to the MOF Jean-Claude David:
- Ice cream is France’s favorite dessert; chocolate, vanilla and strawberry being the most often chosen.
- The words artisan and home-made are note protected in France and each shop doing in house transformation, whatever it may be, can use those terms. Therefore they are synonymous neither with tradition nor quality. His advice: run away from shops where ice creams punnets are overfilled. They are made with industrial powder mixture.
- According to French legislation, there are 3 types of ice cream :
- Ice cream (mixture of only milk, cream, sugar and flavor, such as chocolate, vanilla or fruit) is separated in two categories: glace, literally ice, (with at least 7% egg yolk) and crème glacée, literally iced cream,(with no eggs)
- Sorbet (a mixture of fruit, sugar and water. Surprisingly it’s possible to add fat free milk powder)
- The preparation itself: The mixture that will later be frozen has to be done with unpasteurized whole milk and heated to 86°C so that it’s pasteurized and all bacteria will be killed.
- Egg yolks are often added purportedly to gain flavor and a soften texture. According to his extensive testing experience, eggs are absolutely not necessary. On top of this, salmonella resists temperatures of over 86°. Even though the risks are low (1 in 3 million according to him), there is no need to take such risks.
- Industrial ice creameries add different kind of preservatives. At home, you can simply use agar (see in the recipe).
A nice quotation from Jean-Claude David. “No one becomes MOF if they don’t like sharing with their peers and teaching anyone interested in their knowledge. If you don’t, you are unworthy of being an MOF”.
Now you know more about ice cream, try this recipe or don’t hesitate if you see the acronym CNGF in the front window of your favorite glacier.
For more information see the Confereration Nationale des Glaciers de France‘s website (in French).
Chocolate Ice cream
- Ice cream maker
- 1 l whole milk
- 250 gr sugar
- 50 gr powder milk
- 300 gr cream
- 290 gr dark chocolate
- First prepare all the ingredients and measure the indicated quantities.
- Chop the chocolate into small parts of equal size so that it can melt easily. In a sauce pan, pour the milk and add the sugar. Heat up to 85°C (180°F).
- Make sure your prep won’t boil. Then sprinkle in the milk powder while keeping stirring so that the milk won’t stick to your saucepan and that lump won’t appear. Pour in the cream. Stir again.
- Remove from the stove, add the chocolate and stir until it melts completely and form and homogeneous texture.
- When your preparation looks smooth, pour in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap. The plastic wrap must touch the surface of the preparation. Leave in the refrigerator for half a day (you can leave it up to 4 days before processing the ice cream).
- After the required 12 hours of rest, process the ice cream in you ice cream processor according to the instructions of your device.
Bon appétit !